Koromogae – A seasonal costume

Do you know what koromogae (衣替え) means? In this article, you will learn about this aesthetic custom, which occurs with the change of the seasons and is related to the types of clothes used by the Japanese in public offices and, mainly, in schools.

The change of clothing occurs seasonally, so lighter clothes are made for summer use, while heavier or thicker clothes are more common in winter.

What does “Koromogae” mean?

Koromogae is a word composed of two kanjis. The first 衣 carries the meaning of “clothing,” “garment,” and “accessory.” The second 替 means “exchange,” “change,” and “substitution” and is present in the verb 替える (かえる, kaeru), which translates as “to substitute,” “to exchange,” or “to modify.” Thus, we can infer from the meaning of the kanjis that the word 衣替え (koromogae) carries an idea of change/substitution of clothing.

Summer uniforms

In summer, more specifically on June 1st, school clothes and uniforms for public employees are changed. Long sleeves, suits, and dark clothes (which absorb more heat) are replaced by short-sleeved clothes and t-shirts (usually white) for men. In the case of women, black suits are replaced by the classic sailor-style uniforms (usually white with red bows in the center), which reflect sunlight and thus store less heat.

In the case of boys, the uniform is called “gakuran.” The sailor uniform worn in summer, on the other hand, is called “seera fuku” (sailor fuku or sailor uniform, in free translation).

Below, you can see a typical summer uniform model:

Winter uniforms

On the other hand, during the colder periods of the year, closed suits with long sleeves (usually black or dark blue) are typically worn by boys, and longer/thicker suits (usually dark) by girls. While in summer the fabrics are thinner, lighter, and softer, in winter the fabrics of the uniforms are thicker and consequently warmer. The winter “koromogae” usually begins on October 1st of each year.

It is worth noting that the seasons in Japan tend to be well-defined, unlike in other countries. Thus, there is not as much climatic unpredictability regarding sunny and rainy periods, drought and humidity, as in Brazil, for example, where it can rain on any day of the year depending on the region.

Below, you can see a typical winter uniform model in Japan:

Heian Period – the origin of Koromogae

The “koromogae” is a Japanese habit that dates back to the late 8th century, during the infamous Heian period (794-1185), also known as the “court period” (or period of peace), in which Chinese influences were increasingly strong and active in the cultural scene of the country, such as Buddhism, Taoism, and aesthetic standards of clothing.

In this context, supported by imperial regimes prior to the Meiji Era, by military and individuals of nobility, along with a large part of the population, “koromogae” was established as a common habit that extended not only to clothing but also to accessories and utensils. From then on, with each change of season, the engagement of individuals and institutions in changing uniforms was increasingly observed.

Vocabulary about clothing and koromogae

• 制服 (せいふく, seifuku) = School uniform.
• 衣服 (いふく, ifuku) = Clothing, attire, clothes.
• 服 (ふく, fuku) = Clothes.
• 着替える (きがえる, kigaeru) = To change clothes.
• 季節 (きせつ, kisetsu) = Season of the year.
• 黒 (くろ, kuro) = Black.
• 白 (しろ, shiro) = White.
• スカート (sukaato) = Skirt.
• ズボン (zubon) = Pants, shorts.
• シャツ (shatsu) = T-shirt.
• 学校 (がっこう, gakkou) = School.
• 春夏秋冬 (しゅんかしゅうとう, shunkashuutou) = The 4 seasons of the year.
• 夏 (なつ, natsu) = Summer.
• 冬 (ふゆ, fuyu) = Winter.
• 学ラン (がくらん, gakuran) = Male school uniform, gakuran.
• セーラー服 (せーらーふく, seeraa fuku) = Female school uniform, sailor-style uniform.

So? Did you like the article? Then comment, like, and share with your friends on social media!