Takeda Castle - In the Sea of Clouds

Takeda Castle - In the Sea of Clouds

The Machu Picchu of Japan is a stone ridge above Asago — and the clouds are a morning, not a promise.

The ruins of Takeda Castle (竹田城跡) are located in the city of Asago in Hyogo, Japan. It is often referred to as the Machu Picchu of Japan. The stone walls sit about 353 meters above sea level on Mount Kojo, in the Wadayama area of Asago. On some mornings they really do look as if they were floating. People often compare that view to Studio Ghibli’s 1986 film Castle in the Sky, but the movie was not filmed here; the nickname comes from the mist. Only ruins remain, yet the site was later named one of Japan’s 100 Fine Castles. The sea of clouds is most likely from late September to early December, around dawn, on a still morning after a clear day. Spring can bring mist too, but autumn is the season that made the photographs famous. Even then, the clouds appear only on some mornings and usually burn off within a few hours. Stone walls of the Takeda Castle ruins above the Asago valley, and the same ridge at dawn over a sea of clouds

Takeda - A Castle in the Sky

The castle was originally built around 1443, when Yamana Sozen, the military governor of Tajima, ordered his retainer Otagaki Mitsukage to raise a mountain fortress here. It was later taken by Toyotomi Hideyoshi during his Tajima campaigns in the late 1570s. Akamatsu Hirohide became the last lord in 1585, and the stone walls still standing on the ridge are largely from his years in the castle. During the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Hirohide first sided with the Western army, then joined the attack on Tottori Castle. He was accused of setting fire to the castle town and forced to commit seppuku, after which Takeda Castle was abandoned. In 1943 the ruins were designated a national historic site. Restoration and maintenance work since then has made the layout walkable again; no wooden keep survives. Clock tower on the old castle-town street in Takeda and the wooden gate on the trail up to the ruins

Ritsuunkyo and the walk from Takeda Station

In addition to climbing the castle ruins, visitors go to Ritsuunkyo, on the opposite side of the valley, to photograph the fortress from across the mist. After a walk of about 40 minutes from JR Takeda Station you can explore the walls, then continue to Ritsuunkyo if you want the classic floating-castle shot. There is no public bus to that trailhead, so the extra walk or a short taxi ride is part of the visit. Remember to be prepared: you will walk a lot on trails and climb. Hours and admission change with the season, and the mountain is usually closed from early January through the end of February. Adult tickets are typically 500 yen. Confirm the day’s hours on the official Takeda Castle Ruins site before you go, because weather can close the gates even in season. Takeda Castle ruins sitting above morning clouds, and visitors walking the stone walls on the mountaintop If you come for the sea of clouds, treat it as luck on a cold, still morning — not as a view you can book. The climb from Takeda Station is the same either way, and the walls are still there when the mist burns off. Travelers already in Hyogo often pair the ruins with Himeji Castle, the intact white fortress of the same prefecture: one is a walkable keep, the other is empty stone and a morning that may or may not cooperate.
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Kevin Henrique

Kevin Henrique has written about the Japanese language, culture, anime, games, and travel since founding Suki Desu in 2014. He first visited Japan in 2016.

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